David Park
A modern base oil with the latest additive package technology.
This oil is, like any other oil, a good quality lubricant. It also has some chemistry that makes bold claims about cleaning your engine. As the kind of person who sends my oil off to an oil analysis company, I get to peek behind the curtain.The product stays within spec and performs as well as other top tier synthetic oils. I did notice a good deal more engine cleaning. After an initial spice of typical metals in the oil, the levels dropped much lower than is normal. I also saw an increase in compression, fuel economy and a slight reduction in heat production and noise.So, what’s happening?The main failure mode for modern fuel injected cars is a combination of two elements. The first is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system recycling some exhaust into the air intake. This brings with it some soot and other hard deposits in an unburned oil/fuel mix that likes to sit on the back of the air intake valves. This causes seat wear, shaft wear and erodes sealing effectiveness over time. These deposits are very hard to treat/clean without physically removing trhe air intake and getting in there.The second element is that newer vehicles are starting to use lower compression piston rings to reduce friction against the cylinder walls. Finer machining tolerances make this possible, and fuel efficiency requirements make it necessary. Alas, this comes at the cost of reduced contact and a slight reduction in oil control. Over time, low pressure piston rings are more prone to allowing oil consumption in the combustion chamber and encourage deposits to clock up the rings. After typically 100-140k miles, even with perfect oil changes, the piston rings start to perform less well as they gum up with deposits. This starts a chain of events that causes cylinder wall scoring, ring wear, reducing compression, increasing combustion deposits entering the oil, thereby encouraging faster oil breakdown and mechanical wear elsewhere in the engine.This oil claims, and the oil analysis backs up, that the oil actively reduces these piston ring deposits. This has the effect of restoring ring functions of sealing and oil control. This prevents a whole group of secondary issues, while also improving fuel economy and reducing friction wear.I don’t see a clear reduction in valve deposits, but I do see they have stopped accumulating. This led me to carefully clean these deposits away mechanically. A followup visual inspection after 7,500 miles showed no new deposits. Compression is up. Oil changes since switching to this Restore and Protect oil shows a reduction in combustion contaminants, reduced wear metals, improved acidity control, and a complete elimination of varnish. It’s all gone….re-dissolved into the oil and filters or flushed away on the next oil change. Under the head covers, the top end is MUCH cleaner. I’m 23,000 miles into this oil on a well maintained 125k mile 3.6L V6 that shows wear well within manufacturer new tolerances.So yes, understanding how this oil works, I recommend it. There’s a lot of bold claims, opinions and ‘woo’ out there. Lots of snake oil products and claims. This oil does what it claims.My only advice if you switch to this oil on an >75,000 mile car is simple and sensible: change the oil and filter, then after 500 miles just change the oil filter again. The oil will have released a lot of varnish containing trapped wear metals, grit, particles and waxes/gums. These will collect quickly in the filter over the first 500 miles. Swap those out with a new filter. They’re cheap.Finally, as piston ring tensions drop, people need to reset their thinking on oil consumption. We’re used to high tension piston rings that when working well almost entirely prevent oil consumption. We can go 10k miles on 6 quarts of oil and there’s still 5.5 quarts in there at the end. Neat! With these new lower tension piston rings, the manufacturers are now accepting an oil consumption of as much as a quart per 2,500 miles. That’s in a perfect condition clean engine. With today’s extended oil service intervals of 7,500 or 10,000 miles (I have opinions, hoo boy do I have opinions!) it is quite reasonable and even likely that oil top ups may be required in these newer cars. Personally, I never go beyond 7,500 miles or 375 engine on hours – whichever comes first. I also check oil levels every 1000 miles regardless.So, yes, I’ll recommend this oil for the above reasons, but also because it’s a perfectly fine and usable full synthetic oil of high quality. It has a quality base and a very modern additive package designed for modern cars and older engines alike. It is currently the only oil on the market shown to have this new cleaning action. Until competitors catch up, this does seem to be the oil to beat if you want to baby your engine for 250,000 miles or more.Dave says: two thumbs up.
Geoffrey
I’m a believer on our high mileage vehicles
There has been a lot of hype around this oil. On the surface it would be easy to dismiss that as a media campaign or something… At the end of the day there are some good hard facts out there, and you can watch a million YouTube videos of before/afters.I’ve now been running this oil in three vehicles, one under 100k miles, one at +130k, and one at +165k. I have seen value to paying a tiny bit more for this oil, and think it offers great value for the money.For the high mileage cars: We did a road trip in our 165,000 mile Mazda 3 and averaged right at 39.9mpg across multiple fill ups. That is great mileage for that car. The oil change was dirty, something I took as an indication that the “restore” properties were working to reduce old deposits.For our 130,000 mile car, due to lack of driving the vehicle I did an 11 month interval (way longer than I planned for the first round of R&P). The longevity of the oil for that interval was fine, I am not surprised as synthetics tend to easily last over a year interval if needed. That said, that car has become noticeably smoother at idle. I will be the first to admit that is subjective, but it’s an older car with a noticeable tick. Throtlebody cleaning, some fuel injector cleaner, and this oil were all run through in the last 3k miles, so there was a lot at play.Long story short, the cost difference between this and the high quality oils I tend to use is minimal and I believe (especially for high mileage cars) there are results to be had.